bullet lube

Here's the place to share your questions, knowledge, and experience about the shooting techniques that could make us all better shooters. Safety must always be a consideration when using black powder in our rifles.
Mike Bateman
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bullet lube

Post by Mike Bateman » Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:03 pm

This is my first time at this so please bear with me. I have seen mentioned a bullet lube called "White Lightning" is this available from dealers or a make it yourself formula ?.
I have a CPA Stevens 44 1/2 in 40/65 with a 1 1/8" oct barrel and providing I wipe it with two damp patches and one dry patch it shoots really well. I tried a blow tube but the accuracy went downhill in a big way. I am using SPG as a lube on a Hoch .409 bullet.

PowderFlask2
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Post by PowderFlask2 » Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:54 am

Hey Mike

White Lightning was developed by Dan Theodore and has reportedly had very good success in long range matches in the western USA. It is available through Gentleman Jim Products and it you do a search on this or the Shiloh board you will find it.

That being said, SPG works great in my 40-65 and I used to blow tube, usually 4 long breaths were enough even in 90 degree weather (above that 5-6 breaths). I think you have other problems....try switching powders or make up some loads with some compression (or less if your already compressing etc.

Currently I am wiping one time with a damp patch with a 10% Ballistol 90% water mixture and the 40-65 with SPG lube is shooting very clean and better than I can hold it.

Keep trying, hang in there, but I would look to other things than the lube.

Gary

Mike Bateman
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Post by Mike Bateman » Thu Jan 04, 2007 2:19 pm

Thanks Gary
I will try wipeing with the water Ballistol mix, I was using water and dishwashing liquid. I do all my load testing off the bench with a 16 X scope on the rifle as I want to make sure I am actually testing the load and not my eyesight. I noticed a tip on the firum concerning finding the sweet spot on the barrel using talcum powder on the barrel so I will try that as well.
Thanks again.
Mike

oldbluelight
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Post by oldbluelight » Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:17 pm

Try beating your rifle with a stick. That also works if you're looking for the 'sweet spot'. Hold the rifle muzzle down by the reciever in one hand. Begin tapping lightly with a dowel, wooden hammer handle, or other firm non-marring object and progress down the barrel starting just beyond the end of the forend. You will feel the vibrtations in the barrel and may even hear them as well. If they are really loud you're hitting too hard. When you reach the sweet spot, a vibrational node, the vibrations will cease or become very light and then resume once you are past the node. Your rifle, being either a native or naturalized Aussie, may regard this as a more manly approach than being drenched in talcum powder. This process will certainly be less likely to produce a sneezing fit for you or innocent bystanders. And talcum powder is a mild abrasive so clean up needs to thorough. If anyone asks what you're doing just tell them the rifle always shoots better if you show it who's boss before you start. They'll leave you alone after that, honor any request you make for a cease fire, and behave with a satisfying deference when you approach them. Good Luck.

Mike Bateman
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Post by Mike Bateman » Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:05 pm

Thanks Bluelight
I have been looking for an excuse to give the thing a good beating now I have one.
Thanks
Mike

PowderFlask2
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Post by PowderFlask2 » Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:19 pm

If you try shooting off of some bench sticks with the barrel resting at the null vibration point described by bluelight and then pick another spot 3-4 inches away I think you'll find a big difference in group size

at least I did

Gary

Mike Bateman
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Post by Mike Bateman » Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:04 pm

Gary
Four inches further forward or back, ?. Accuracy better or worse ?.
Mike

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montana_charlie
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Post by montana_charlie » Fri Jan 05, 2007 8:14 pm

If I may, I'd like to ask a question while this subject is being discussed.

I used the same procedure outlined by oldbluelight, and easily found my null point with a nylon hammer...about nine inches ahead of my forend tip.

The question is...
Does the null point stay remain the same when the rifle is actually being fired...and if not...does it move around when you shoot a different load?

This could probably be answered with the talcum powder method, but the wind here
(for weeks) has been too strong to allow powder to settle on the barrel.
CM
Retired...twice. Now, just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

Jim Milner
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Post by Jim Milner » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:16 pm

Hey Montana-Charlie,
I grew up in Livingston, and know how the wind blows... We had a wind storm one time that was so strong, Dad had hung a sack of flour on the wall of the shed, and the wind blew the sack away and left the flour hangin there.
Jim
LIMBSAVER® BPCR TEAM
You are only as good as your last performance


C.Sharps Hiwall 40-65

PowderFlask2
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Post by PowderFlask2 » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:26 pm

Hey Mike

I found the accuracy to be better at the null point, it seemed like the barrel bounced off the sticks more when placed away from that point.

I found mine by just suspending the gun by the wrist and while letting it hang, gently tapping along the barrel with a rawhide mallet and you will find a spot where the barrel does not vibrate.

Give a try YMMV

Gary

EDWARD MALINOWSKI
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Post by EDWARD MALINOWSKI » Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:06 pm

The cross sticks may change the node by modifying the vibrations(damping).

Ed Malinowski

Mike Bateman
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Post by Mike Bateman » Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:46 am

So much to try, so little time.

Age and treachery will allways overcome youth and skill.

oldbluelight
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Post by oldbluelight » Thu Jan 11, 2007 10:05 pm

Ed, resting the barrel anywhere will not change its vibrational pattern significantly. I'm not a physicist nor do I play one on TV but I just tried a little experiment with observable vibrational nodes. About the best demonstration is a fly rod (other types may work but I don't have any because I'm a devout Southern Troutist and wont allow them in my home). Grasp the rod at the handle and shake it. You will see that it has one or two nodes depending on length and action. Note where they are using the guides as a reference. Now grasp the rod by the shaft some distance above the grip and shake it. You will see that the node location has not significantly moved. You may also notice that you feel the vibrations somewhat less. I believe the node or null spot works because it imparts the least disturbance to the barrel from rebound on the rest as the vibrations move down it. The node is the point of least vibration consequently contact there has the least effect on displacing the barrel. Hopefully this wild eyed guess will prompt a physicist to jump in and flog all our ignorance away.

EDWARD MALINOWSKI
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Post by EDWARD MALINOWSKI » Thu Jan 11, 2007 10:34 pm

oldbluelight
I'm a rookie, but will listen.
I tried the node with the hammer thing but found the most accurate placement was not at this position. I didn't get a chance to challenge your observation.
I will keep it in mind when I have a chance to test your theory.

Thanks for your input.
I thought of this on a lark of limited testing..

Best wishes
Ed Malinowski

PS my friend who is much more of a independent observer than I agrees with you.

John Boy

Post by John Boy » Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:25 pm


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