Finishing the stock on a new CPA

Big Steve
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LocationCOLON Tyler, Texas

Finishing the stock on a new CPA

Post by Big Steve » Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:10 pm

Where can I find the best method to finish the wood on my new CPA?
I ordered it fitted and sanded, but unfinished. I'm sure that I will still have to do a little sanding. I was planning on using tung oil.

DRCook
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Post by DRCook » Thu Jun 26, 2008 4:45 pm

the oil I use is thinnable using mineral spirits. if your brand of oil is, thin to at least 2 to 1 mineral spirits to oil. then once you are satisfied with the dry sand papering, start with 320 grit wet and dry and run a thinned coat in, then work it over with the wet and dry (just like wet sanding a car), leave the sanding crud on for a 1/2 hr then wipe the crud off and let the wood dry for 2 days. then go over it 1 or two more times with this grit. then move to the next finer grit always allowing a couple days dry time. if you apply too much, too fast, it will not dry underneath and will bubble up through the finish

you can get a smooth as glass finish this way, with the oil down into the wood, not just floating on top.

i've done 3 cpa's this way, with 3 to go

Big Steve
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LocationCOLON Tyler, Texas

Post by Big Steve » Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:55 pm

Thank you DRCook. I am anxious to get started.
Big Steve

DRCook
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Post by DRCook » Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:15 pm

just take your time.

i learned this technique from the gentleman who did winchester restorations, it appears he has retired and the website is down. i messed up and didn't save his webpages for future reference

i have reached the 1500 grit on my wife's cpa. I am going to let it dry for a few weeks, then start the hand rubbed coats

grinella
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Post by grinella » Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:55 am

Hey DRCook,

What is the brand of oil that you are using?

Big Steve
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LocationCOLON Tyler, Texas

Post by Big Steve » Thu Mar 05, 2009 2:18 pm

grinella,

I know that you asked DRCook and not me, but I used Sutherland - Wells polymerized tung oil and got beautiful results. The finish is tough and beautiful. The oil dried quickly and was a pleasure to work with.

Steve Harris

vintagebpcs
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Post by vintagebpcs » Thu Mar 05, 2009 5:24 pm

I have a fair knowledge in stock refinishing and I use this process. Sand the wood down to 320 grit, then apply two or three coat of feberling alcohol dye to your desired color, make sure to let dry and burnish between coats with a synthetic steel wool pad 0000 to remove all the raised grain. With the third coat these hairs should disappear. Apply a sealer I like Laurel Mnt"s product used to their directions. After a day or so or drying I apply either of two products Deft stain finishing oil at least two coat soaked in well and hand rubbed out, then before dry I apply a heavy but not runny layer and hang the stock outside in direct sun until dry, this gives the desired shiny look. If the satin look is desired continue the hand rub process for plus six coats. The other finish that works very well for the satin rubbed look is the Laurel Mnt line of products used per label direction. Finish off after several days of drying with a good quality furniture grade paste wax.
Vintagebpcs

Plainbase
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Post by Plainbase » Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:32 pm

Here you go:
https://www.dixiegunworks.com
then search for LC1004. Do it up right.
Plainbase

grinella
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JoinedCOLON Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:05 am

Post by grinella » Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:24 pm

Thank you for the replies!

My new CPA should be here on Tuesday, so I want to have the finishing materials on hand so I can get started ASAP.

All of the guns I see at the ranges I have visited seem to have very dark colored finishes. I wanted something that is a little bit different, so I ordered mine with a maple stock. I know that I will be putting a little bit of stain on it, but I don't want to darken it too much. How much will the previous suggestions darken the wood?

Since I live in Oregon, moisture is a big concern. I have heard that linseed oil and tung oil really aren't very good finishes because they are too porous. If I want something that is very water resistant, am I going to have to use some sort of a polyurethane product, or is there another option?

Thank you.

grinella
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JoinedCOLON Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:05 am

Post by grinella » Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:29 pm

Is this the same as the LC1004, but only $10?

http://www.creedmoorsports.com/store/pr ... stseller=Y

Plainbase
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Post by Plainbase » Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:48 pm

No, the LC1004 is a British product, the same that has been used on fine rifles for over a hundred years - and, rifles that were used in places a little more steamy than the northwest coast. It won't darken the wood any more than water, just add a little red to the grain. Here's a link to a Brit source:
http://www.swillingtonshootingsupplies. ... shing-Kit/
It won't be a quick process, however. It will take you at least a month; it did on my Stevens. If you are in a hurry, get some Flecto Varathane Natural Oil Finish. Looks like oil, protects like plastic.
Plainbase

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